In DN’s Krogkommissionen, Sperling & Co is portrayed as a new luxury brasserie at Stureplan where meat takes the leading role – and where the overall experience delivers on exactly what the restaurant sets out to be. The interior is described as elegant and well considered, with dark woods, burgundy leather, crisp white tablecloths and a golden glow that creates an international, continental atmosphere. Sperling sums up the feeling as a “classic continental restaurant,” in a setting reminiscent of “a slightly dreamlike version of the Orient Express.”
Krogkommissionen describes the restaurant as an obvious destination for carnivores, where visible meat fridges and exclusive cuts clearly signal both ambition and quality. The menu moves between the old world and the new with the grill as its focal point, and the wine list is praised – especially for its wide selection of wines by the glass.
Among the starters, the lobster carpaccio is highlighted as a true standout, with Sperling calling it “a dish you’d happily come back for.” The larger meat dishes are also described as luxurious and very well executed, with clear precision in the cooking. The most celebrated dish in the review is the “tallow-coated” Swedish ribeye, which Sperling describes as “a cut of meat that completely melts in your mouth.”
The pace and atmosphere are also portrayed positively: lively, bustling and full of energy, with staff moving quickly between tables carrying steaming platters. For those who enjoy a high-spirited dinner setting with “pace and buzz,” DN suggests there is much to appreciate – and the sommelier receives extra praise for being present, engaged and genuinely helpful when discussing wine pairings.
Overall, the verdict is clear: Sperling & Co succeeds in what it sets out to do. The meat is of high quality, the cooking is refined, and the experience as a whole combines both energy and finesse.
